April 22, 2019, 05:11:15
News: Skyartec for 9x project is now up

LunarFlow R/C

Show Posts

* Messages | Topics | Attachments

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - chris

Pages: 1 [2] 3
Projects / Re: V922
« on: September 08, 2013, 01:59:01 »
You might have to open a command prompt then "cd" to the SiLabs directory and type "MakeHexFiles" then maybe you can see what error it is getting.

Did you install Ride7 in "C:\Raisonance"?

Projects / Re: V922
« on: September 08, 2013, 01:50:30 »
What happens if you double click the "MakeHexFiles"?  It should run and build the hex files.  No need to open the Ride7 GUI.

Projects / Re: V922
« on: September 08, 2013, 01:46:09 »
What error messages do you get?

Projects / Re: Easily build simonk firmware on Windows
« on: September 07, 2013, 15:09:50 »
"make.bat" renamed to "MakeHexFiles.bat" to avoid confusion.

"MakeHexFiles.bat" with no parameters will build all firmware in the Makefile. Optionally, the names of the firmware to build can be specified. For example, to build only the afro and bs_nfet firmware:
Code: [Select]
MakeHexFiles afro bs_nfet

Projects / Re: V922
« on: September 06, 2013, 13:26:40 »
You need to install the Raisonance tools (Ride7 and RKit-51).  It is not necessary to "activate" the tools with a Raisonance license, just download and install.

Make sure to install Ride7 first and change the installation directory to "C:\Raisonance".

After installing those you can run the "MakeHexfiles.bat" file in the BLHeli directory.

Projects / Re: Warthox inspired 400mm quad project
« on: September 01, 2013, 13:45:11 »
Best to get from the MultiWii project.  They have source code, downloads, etc here:

Projects / Re: V922
« on: August 27, 2013, 15:14:14 »
No but supposedly the Deviation project is working on it. I'm not sure if it works yet but they did have some code finished last time I looked. However, I believe their first target was the V202 which uses the same NRF chipset but a different protocol than the V922/FBL100.

Projects / FrSky Taranis
« on: July 17, 2013, 22:10:44 »
The radio doesn't sit flat on the bottom when you set it down on a level surface.

External TX module pins must be bent to fit modules.

Projects / Re: Easily build simonk firmware on Windows
« on: June 22, 2013, 12:11:42 »
I updated the "make.bat" batch script so that it will now stop on errors.

Projects / Blade 130X
« on: June 18, 2013, 23:31:02 »
Project 130X.

Had a Rakon DFC CNC head that was not square from the factory so I pounded on it with a hammer to make it straight.  :)

It appears to be possible to use an S107 tail motor to repair/replace the 130x servo motor.  The S107 motor is 4mm and the servo motor is normally 5mm so there is some extra space.  I used a piece of 1.5mm carbon rod to take up the extra space and it seems to work fine.  I may try to find some other method of holding the motor in place.  Also, rumour is that some S107 clones have 5mm tail motors.

Projects / Re: MultiWii 3D
« on: June 10, 2013, 12:30:55 »
This is my technique for making 3D props:

First I get two pieces of wood and a C-clamp.  Then I heat up one side of the prop with a heat gun set on low.  It actually doesn't take that much heat.  I keep the gun about 2 or 3 inches away, constantly moving it, I flip the prop over a few times to heat both sides, for about 15-20 seconds.  Try not to heat up the center part of the blade, especially not the hub.  Be careful about using too much heat for too long or the plastic will permanently bubble.  This is probably highly dependant on your heat gun, use your own judgement but you will probably be surprised at how little heat it actually takes to make the prop soft, just work quickly.

After the blade is hot I quickly and carefully slip it between the two pieces of wood then clamp down tightly with the C-clamp.  The first time I'm only flattening the last 50% or so of the total blade length.  I let it cool for 30 seconds or so in the clamp.

To make it easier to slip the prop between the wood I usually keep something else pushed in there as a spacer to hold the wood apart.  I can then slip the prop in and remove the spacer.

Next I remove the prop then heat it again.  This time focusing more on the part of the blade closest to the hub.  After it's hot I fully insert it between the wood and clamp with the C-clamp.  This will flatten the entire blade.

After the C-clamp is tight I twist the hub with my fingers (watch out, might be hot) to take out some of the pitch of the blade.  I just hold it at what looks like a good angle until the prop cools down.  If you don't take out some of the pitch the blade will be angled way too much vertically which will create a lot of drag and little lift, this can also overload your ESC and/or motor.

Then I do the other side the same way.  Once complete I examine the prop checking the angles and such.  If anything is off or doesn't look right I reheat and correct using the same techniques as above.

Finally I put the prop on a motor and run it up to speed in both directions with an ammeter on the battery.  I check to make sure it's not overloading the ESC and/or motor.  As always, be careful when doing these types of tests.  It's easy to accidentally and unexpectedly get the motor running at full speed when running the reversible firmware.

Projects / mCPX
« on: May 24, 2013, 15:10:44 »
Bought a cheap mCPX off eBay that had a broken 3-in-1.  Fixed the 3-in-1 and converted to brushless using C05XL and super-FET XP-3A (double FET's).

Main motor PWM signal (from resistor on back of board) is 1kHz.  On the 9x using OrangeRX TX module throttle ranges from -72% (completely off) to +72% (solid full throttle signal).

Projects / V922
« on: April 29, 2013, 00:04:14 »
See also my HiSKY/HT8 for 9x thread.

Attached is my ER9x model for the V922.  I have the HT8 set for Futaba mode.  Note this model has no "beginner" mode or even idle-down (ie. full 3D always).  To fly start with the F.MODE switch all the way up (ID0), move pitch/throttle to mid-stick, then switch F.MODE down one click to "1".  It will spin up to full throttle within a few seconds.  The throttle cut switch works but what I do is just flick the F.MODE switch all the way up, this is much faster than reaching for the throttle cut.

These are the settings used in the model:

PPM FrLen16.5mSec
PPM Shift SelNEG
ELE DirectionINV
AIL DirectionINV
Swash Type120
Swash Ring100
Throttleflat 100%
Pitch 68%

WLToys V922 tuning 3D

I have converted to brushless using the HK 14000kv motor and a modified HK XP-3A ESC that has new double-stacked FET's.  I'm using Hyperion 550 mAh batteries for about 6:30 minutes flight time.

I measured the PWM signal on the main motor FET gate. It appears to have an 80us cycle time which means 12.5 kHz signal. With a 9x/HT8 the PWM signal starts minimum throttle (18% duty cycle) at approximately -52% and is full throttle at around 39%. These are only approximate because of calibration and PPM timing differences between radios.

Attached to this thread is a custom version of BLHeli specifically built for the V922.  BLHeli normally only supports a maximum of 8kHz PWM on its signal wire but the V922 motor output runs at 12.5kHz.  What this does is make the throttle skip from 66% to 100% with no way to use any value in between.  My custom version of BLHeli multiplies the signal by 1.5 to bring the 8kHz calculations up to 12kHz and this makes the throttle perfectly linear.  Also attached are patch files that show the source changes I made.  I built versions using BLHeli 9.4 and 10.3.  I use 9.4 but the latest BLHeli is 10.3.

BLHeli 10.4 now supports 12kHz so no need to use my version of BLHeli unless you want to run an older version (I currently still use 9.4).

WLToys V922 brushless test 3D

New paper canopy, although I think I'm going to end up using this on my mCPX.  It's made with card stock which is a little too heavy for my liking (3.7g).  I'm going to try to make another with lighter materials.

Projects / HiSKY for 9x
« on: April 29, 2013, 00:00:01 »
See also my V922 thread.

Projects / Skyartec TX module for the 9x
« on: April 20, 2013, 15:31:07 »
This is a TX module for the 9x that works with Skyartec receivers (eg. Wasp 100 Nano CP, etc). It uses an off-the-shelf generic CC2500 module (eBay/China) and has an integrated LNA that provides 100mW output. The RF module is controlled by an Arduino Pro Mini board which converts the PPM signal from the 9x to the Skyartec protocol.  The TX module runs at 3.3V and uses a single 2N7000 MOSFET for level conversion of the 5V 9x PPM signal.

I fly with a fairly low power setting.  If you look in "skyartec9x.ino" at the skyartec_init() function the power output can be increased.  The current code looks like:
Code: [Select]
CC2500_WriteReg(CC2500_3E_PATABLE, CC2500_97_PWR10DN);  That can be changed to:
Code: [Select]
CC2500_WriteReg(CC2500_3E_PATABLE, CC2500_FF_PWR1UP); for maximum power.

This is the CC2500 module I used:

Although almost any CC2500 module will work.

I use a separate power supply and 9x interface board that supplies the 3.3v and PPM signal.

Skyartec Wasp 100 Nano CP with Turnigy 9x

Pages: 1 [2] 3

© 2019 Lunarflow
© 2019 Simple Machines